John's World...Beers of Bangalore
As Brinda already mentioned, we are saying goodbyes and
crossing off items on bucket lists. For Father’s
Day this year, Brinda set me up with a night of beer tasting through Airbnb
experiences. She really took care of
me. Set up the car, put money in my wallet,
my only job was to drink beer.
Hmmm. I think I can
do that.
All over India, Bangalore is known for being the brewing
capital. Locals have drunk beer since
the arrival of the British to the area.
More recently the reputation of beer capital was mostly built off the
fact that United Breweries is headquarted and brews here in Bangalore. United Breweries is the company that owns
Kingfisher. Like Budweiser (in many
ways), Kingfisher brands make up a share of the market of over 90%. It’s everywhere. If you ask for a beer in India, you will
likely get this.
HQ of United Breweries, home of Kingfisher, aka the evil empire |
Just over ten years ago, India relaxed their licensing of
brewing. Overnight, brewpubs popped
up. With a population that already had a
taste for beer, Bangalore was once again at the brewing forefront. Having lived through a similar revolution in
the United States in New England and Seattle, it was amazing to see the similar
dedication and joy that these brewers here in Bangalore have towards their
craft.
The tour started around 5:30pm when I met my guide Akash at
a place in Kormangala named Biergarten.
The place was packed as India was playing Pakistan in the Cricket World
Cup. In spite of the noise (India
dismantled Pakistan), Akash explained the history of the brew scene, the
restrictions for brewers, and the different beers brewers are experimenting
with.
double IPA |
Indian brewers are in a tough spot. All beer under a certain number of liters,
must be consumed on premises. This means
that only big breweries are allowed to sell in liquor stores and restaurants. Everyone else usually has a restaurant
attached to the brewery. No growlers are
allowed to be sold either. Additionally,
beers must only be brewed to be below 8% alcohol. This means many double IPAs, Imperial beers,
and strong ales aren’t allowed. So
categories are somewhat limited. Lastly,
as I mentioned in the hop garden post, ingredients are hard to come by. ALL ingredients must be imported. This can make the initial expense for a brew
cost prohibitive if you are trying to experiment with glamorous
ingredients.
herbed saison |
Given these parameters, brewers tend to brew about 5-7 beers
they know will sell and have possibly one experimental beer to gauge the tastes
of consumers. Every brewery I went to
had a wheat beer or hefewiezen (biggest selling), a white beer (like a Blue
Moon type), an IPA, a light ale (Kolsch for example), and a stout (poorest
selling). The experimental brews tended
to be my favorite.
Akash was a fantastic host |
The brewpub spaces were far from modest. They were grand. Biergarten had the look of a true
Munich-style biergarten. Long tables,
good bar food, and a large selection of German-style beers. My favorite-Double IPA.
Biergarten |
We then moved on to the Beer Library. The inside was incredible. You walk up to the large, medieval looking
French doors and a doorman with great panache opens the door to reveal a large
space made to look like a library. The
space looked candle –lit at that time of the night. Here my favorite beer was the Gose style of
beer made with raw mango. Nice balance
of salty, sour, and sweet.
Inside of Beer Library |
The last place I visited was ShakesBier (get it). Given the place in the night (I had tasted
about 13 beers at that point) I simply ordered the most interesting beer I saw. The herbed saison was fantastic in spite of
my oncoming inebriation. It was a great
way to cap off a fantastic night and to really gain an appreciation for the
beers and brewers taking part in this gastronomic revolution. Jai Hind!
Truth |
Thanks again to my wife for making this Father’s Day
special. One I will never forget.
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